The term centre gore refers to the space in a bra that sits between your breasts. This little space can change the way you look in a bra and determine how comfortable it will be for you to wear! Different widths and depths of a gore will determine how close or separated your breasts will be. For some women, only one height or width will work and feel comfortable while others will be able to wear several different types successfully. Read on to learn more about different centre gores and their importance!
A balcony bra has a mid-range centre gore as seen here in the Cari Spacer Foam Bra by Panache Lingerie. Balcony bras fit a number of figure types, providing separation between breasts while still allowing some cleavage to peak across the top of cups!
Regardless of underwire or soft cup, the gore determines how much of your breasts are covered or exposed and how wide or narrow your breasts will be set. The longer the gore, the more coverage (full cup) and the lower the gore, the more breast exposed. In an underwire bra, the gore should lay flat against your chest wall, neither digging in (ouch!) nor pulling away (won’t be long until that wire pops through the fabric!)
Only molded, soft cup (non-wired) bras will lay flat. An unmolded soft cup will generally stand away from your chest wall and your breasts will be centred to the point of kissing each other. Some women don’t like this feeling! Skin on skin can create perspiration and if not kept in check, can lead to rash or irritation. That said, many reputable bra manufacturers recognize the worldwide revival of soft cup bras and their innovations have been significant in recent years!
The Beyond Bra from Evelyn & Bobbie is a new technology wireless bra with a centre gore that rests against the breast bone.
A small percentage of bodies have a convex or concave breast bone. In either instance, finding a centre gore that fits perfectly flat can seem nearly impossible. Bra Fitters understand that the depth of the cup (shallow, average, deep) will change how the gore fits. If you feel the gore digging, you might need a style with a shallower cup. If it's pulling away, you probably need a deeper cup. In these instances, you need to change the style, not necessarily the size. Alternatively, you can try a smaller band size. Remember to increase the cup by one full size when decreasing the band so you don’t lose any volume in the cups!
The center gore is deep on sports bras like the Sweater Bra by Prima Donna Sport. It provides more coverage to the breasts and to minimize vertical bounce.
Wide, short centre gore.
Narrow, short centre gore.
The centre gore is a factor that affects the shape that the bra provides and it is integral to its support regardless of your size.
Take the test. If your breasts gravitate to the side and are two or more fingers apart, then wider centre gores will work for you. The narrower the gore, the closer the cups are set and this works well for narrow set breasts needing more forward projection. If your breasts are closer together; two or less fingers apart, then narrow centre gores will work well for you. If you are two fingers apart, you can likely work with multiple gore widths.
A low, mid-width gore (Roxie bra by Sculptresse) is great for wide and average set breasts that are side heavy.
If your breasts are heaviest at the sides and spaced quite far apart with very little full breast tissue in the middle then you'll want to look for wide to medium width gores that are short to medium height. A tall gore can give you too much cup at the center which your breasts can't fill. (The dreaded gapping!) The shorter gore will still give you enough support as you don't have heavy breast tissue at the center that needs support.
A medium/tall gore like Jasmine by Panache Lingerie is great for average set breasts (both rounded and shallow) that need forward support.
Gores for Average-Set Breasts
If you have breasts that are full all round and set averagely close together then you need extra support at the front/center of your bust, particularly for G Cups or larger. Look for medium to tall gores. The increased projection away from your body requires both vertical and horizontal support. Stretchy upper cups work well If your breasts are shallow at the top.
If you have close set breasts then look for bras like Elise by Fitfully Yours. The centre gore is very narrow and the under wires are set side by side with no gap in between.
Gores for Close-Set Breasts
If your breasts are very close set, the centre gore often becomes a problem. If the gore is just too pinching, try on bras that have short centre wires found in plunge styles. The gore will lay flat against your breast bone, just below where your breasts meet.
The Molly Nursing Bra by Elomi is a great example of vertically rising cups from the centre gore. This is a full cup bra that provides complete support to full, round breasts.
If you have full, round breasts then look for cups that rise vertically from the gore rather than cutting acutely across. If your breasts are shallow through the top then you can look for plunge styles with cups that come out more acutely from the gore as you need less cup coverage.